Year of Publication: 2007
Posted by Craig Luebben
Genre or theme: Mountaineering. Educational literature
Publisher: The mountaineers books
ISBN: 978-1-59485-006-6
Series: Mountaineers outdoor expert
English language
Format: PDF
Interactive table of contents: Yes
Number of Pages: 355
This entry in the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series, for intermediate-to-advanced climbers, presents modern anchoring ideas and techniques for top-roping, rappelling, sport climbing, traditional rock climbing, and mountaineering-all in one comprehensive guide. Luebben covers the finer points of all types of commonly used anchors: removable anchors including hexes, wired nuts, tri-cams, expanding wedges, expandable tubes, and cams; natural anchors such as trees and boulders; and fixed anchors like bolts and pitons. Photos show a variety of gear placements, accompanied by discussion of the pros and cons of each.
The author Craig Luebben has undergone internationally recognized training and certification exams
in the highest levels of professional guiding. Although the content of this book does not officially
represent American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) guiding techniques, the AMGA does endorse
the author, who is a certified guide, and the content of this book which provides the most current
techniques used in the craft of technical mountaineering.
Acknowledgments
Introduction
CHAPTER 1
Anchor Basics
Top-rope anchors
Rapem; margin-bottom: 0.05em; margin-left: p for lowering pel anchors
Sport climbing anchors
Belay anchors
Lead protection
Aid and big wall climbing
Clean climbing
Forces on climbing anchors
How many anchors?
How important is equalization?
Pre-equalized anchors
Self-equalizing anchors
V-angle
Pulley effect
Multidirectional anchors
Climber attachment to the anchors
Belaying the second
Belaying the leader
Rock type and rock quality
CHAPTER 2
Natural and Fixed Anchors
Natural anchors
Fixed anchors
CHAPTER 3
Chocks
Evolution of climbing chocks
Wired nuts
Hexagonal chocks
Tri-cams
Sliding nuts
Expandable tubes good surface contact. impact force
Size and strength
CHAPTER 4
Cams
Cam evolution
Setting and removing cams
Good and bad cam placements
Cam testing
Cam design
CHAPTER 5
Top-rope and Rappel Anchors
Slingshot top rope
Top belay
Rappel anchors
CHAPTER 6
Sport Climbing Anchors
Clipping bolts
Rigging top anchors for lowering and top-roping
Multipitch belay anchors
CHAPTER 7
Traditional Belay Anchors
Belay station
Belay rigging methods
Cordelette craft
Minimalist rigging with slings
Rigging with the climbing rope
CHAPTER 8
Trad Leading
Protecting the climb
CHAPTER 9
Climbing Forces
Newton’s laws of motion
Potential and kinetic energy
Impact force
Impulse and momentum
Strength of climbing gear
Appendix 1: Webbing, Cord, and Carabiners
Appendix 2: Knots
Appendix 3: Equations
Glossary
Resources
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